Flower Granny Scarves: Print Friendly Pattern

FLOWER GRANNY SCARVES:    PATTERN

THE PHOTO TUTORIAL BLOG POST CAN BE FOUND HERE

Yarn:    DK / 8ply / Light Worsted Weight
Hook:   5.50mm 
Foundation:  17ch
Length:  160cm

THIS PATTERN IS WRITTEN IN US TERMS

Basic Stitches:   We are using five basic stitches only - chain (ch);  single crochet (sc);  double crochet (dc); triple crochet (trc) and a slip stitch (sl st) (US terms); 

UK CROCHETERS will be using a double crochet (dc) (single crochet in US);   treble (tr) (double crochet in US);  double treble (dtr) (triple crochet in US);  chain (ch);   and slip stich (sl st)

Granny Stripe Panel

Foundation:   17ch

Row 1:    Into 6th chain from hook, 3dc;    (skip 2ch, 3dc into next ch) x 3;  skip next ch;   1ch, 1dc into last ch;    turn work


Row 2:   3ch (counts as 1dc);   2dc into 1ch space;  (3dc into space between 3dc groupings) x 3;   3dc into space at end of row;   turn work


Row 3:   4ch (counts as 1dc, 1ch);   (3dc into space between 3dc groupings) x 4;   1ch, 1dc into top of 3ch at end of row;   turn work 
 
Even Rows 4 - 120 (Repeat Row 2)
Odd Rows 5 - 119 (Repeat Row 3)

On 120 Rows the Granny Stripe Panel measures 130cm.     The scarf is easily made shorter by crocheting fewer rows.

Make two traditional granny squares as follows:
Traditional Granny Square:

Foundation:  4ch, sl st to form ring OR make a magic ring

Row 1:    3ch (counts as 1dc) 2dc into circle,  2ch (3dc into circle, 2ch) x 3;    sl st into top of 3ch at start of row to close;   Break off yarn.

Row 2:  Join yarn in any 2ch space;   3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc, 2ch, 3dc into same space as join;   (3dc, 2ch, 3dc into next 2ch space) x 3;    sl st into top of 3ch at start of row to close;   Break off yarn

Row 3:  Join yarn in any 2ch space;   3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc, 2ch, 3dc into same space as join;   3dc into space between 3dc groupings;  (3dc, 2ch, 3dc into next 2ch space;   3dc into next space between 3dc groupings) x 3;    sl st into top of 3ch at start of row to close;   Break off yarn

Row 4:  Join yarn in any 2ch space;   3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc, 2ch, 3dc into same space as join;   1dc into the top of each dc up to the corner;  (3dc, 2ch, 3dc into next 2ch space;   1dc into the top of each dc up to the corner) x 3;    sl st into top of 3ch at start of row to close;   Break off yarn

Use whatever method you are comfortable with to join your square to your main work-piece.   (I used the join-as-you go method to join my squares, by making a slip st every third stitch from my granny square into my main work-piece (make sure that the right side of both squares face in the same direction when you join)


Border:
Worked along the length of the scarf on both sides - right side facing

Row 1:  Join yarn in corner of granny square (right side facing);   3ch, 1dc into each dc; 1dc into corner space, 1dc across join;   2dc into side of each post along the granny rows;  1dc across join, 1dc into corner space, 1dc into each dc, 1dc into corner of granny, break off yarn.


Row 2:   Join yarn in top of 3ch on row 2, 1sc into each dc across the length of the scarf, break off yarn


Row 3:  Join yarn in 1st single crochet,   3ch (counts as 1dc) 2dc in same space as join;   (skip 2sc, sl st into 3rd sc;   skip 2sc, 6dc in next sc) repeat to last 6sc;   skip 2sc, sl st in next sc; skip 2sc, 3dc in last sc, break off yarn


Fringe Edging:
Worked along both ends of the scarf in the same colour as the Shell Border Row 

Row 1:  Working on the right side of your work, join yarn into side post of shell row;  2sc into same place as join,  1sc into side post of sc row, 2sc into side post of dc row; 1sc into each dc across granny square;   2sc into side post of dc row;  1sc into side post of sc row;  2sc into side post of shell row, turn work (27sc)


Row 2:  Working on the wrong side of your work, 1ch, 1sc into same place as 1st sc, 1sc into each of next 26sc, turn work.

Row 3:  working on the right side of your work, (15ch, Popcorn Stitch into fourth ch from hook, 12ch, skip 2sc, sl st into 3rd sc) x 9.   Break off yarn.


EMBELLISHMENTS
Add as many flowers as you like (or none at all), you can even add beads or buttons to "customize" your scarf!


Pansy Flower:
Foundation: 3ch or make a magic ring

Petals:  (3ch, 4 trc, 3ch, sl st into ring) x 2;   2ch, 2dc, 2ch, sl st into ring;   3ch, 2trc, 3ch sl st into ring,   2ch, 2dc, 2ch, sl st into ring,    break off yarn.

Embroider the flower centres in a contrasting colour

Leaves: 
Foundation:  6ch

Leaf:  1sc into 2nd ch from hook; 1sc into next ch, 1hdc into each of next 2ch;  6dc into last chain (this will form the curve of your leaf and will bring you around to the bottom end of the chain);   working along the bottom edge of the chain, 1hdc into each of next 2ch; 1sc into next ch,  sl st into next ch, break off yarn.

Happy Days CAL(7): Zooty Mandala Square

Welcome to Part 7 of our Happy Days Blanket Crochet Along! 

Here are the links to the squares we have made so far:

PART 1 (Hakuna Matata Mandala Square) (where you will find all the necessary info about this project);
 
Part 2 (Sunny Flower Square);

Part 3 (Tic-Tac-Toe Square);

Part 4 (Solid Granny Square);

Part 5 (Popcorn Flower & Leaves Square); and

Part 6 (Box Stitch Square)

So far we have made:
4 x Hakuna Matata Squares (28cm x 28cm each)
10 x  Sunny Flower Squares (14cm x 14cm each)
4 x  Tic-Tac-Toe Squares (28cm x 28cm each)
10 x Solid Granny Squares (14cm x 14cm each)
8 x Popcorn Flower & Leaves Squares (14cm x 14cm each)
8 x Box Stitch Squares (14cm x 14cm)

We have joined the Sunny Flower Squares and the Solid Granny Squares to make 5 bigger 28cm x 28cm Squares

We have also joined the Popcorn Flower & Leaves Squares and the Box Stitch Squares to make 4 bigger 28cm x 28cm Squares.

I love to see how each blanket is growing in such a uniquely beautiful way!!!

This week we will be making 4 x Zooty Mandala Squares.

ZOOTY MANDALA SQUARE

YARN:  DK (8ply / light worsted weight) 100% acrylic 
 
HOOK:  5.00mm

SIZE:  28cm x 28cm

PATTERN TERMS:   US 

Rows 1 - 9:    Follow Rows 1 - 9 of the ZOOTY OWL TRIVET PATTERN

(Correction:    Row 9 the stitch count is different for this Mandala - Join yarn in sp bet any 4dc grouping;   in same sp as join 3ch (counts as 1dc), 4dc,  (5dc in next sp between groupings) repeat to end;   sl st into top of 3ch at start to close;   break off yarn)

Row 10:  Join yarn between any two dc on last row of Mandala, 4ch in same space as join (counts as 1sc, 3ch);  [skip 2 spaces between dc (this means you will skip 3dc posts) 1sc into the 3rd space, 3ch] repeat all around the circle;  3ch sl st into first chain at start of row (40 x 3ch loops)

Row 11:  Join yarn in any 3ch space;    [4ch (counts as 1trc) 2trc, 3ch, 3trc into same space as join;  1ch (corner)];  [3trc into next 3ch space, 1ch;  3dc into next 3ch space, 1ch;  3hdc into next 3ch space, 1ch;  (3sc into next 3ch space, 1ch) x3;  3hdc into next 3ch space, 1ch;   3dc into next 3ch space, 1ch;   3trc into next 3ch space, 1ch;  (3trc, 3ch, 3trc into next 3ch space, 1ch)] x3;  3trc into next 3ch space, 1ch;  3dc into next 3ch space, 1ch;  3hdc into next 3ch space, 1ch;  (3sc into next 3ch space, 1ch) x3;  3hdc into next 3ch space, 1ch;   3dc into next 3ch space, 1ch;   3trc into next 3ch space, 1ch    sl st into top of 4ch at start.   Break off yarn.

At this stage your square will still be looking slightly curved

Row 12:  Join yarn in any 3ch corner space;  [4ch (counts as 1sc, 3ch) 1sc] into same space as join;  [3ch, 1sc) repeat around square, working (1sc, 3ch, 1sc) into each corner space;   sl st into 1st of 4ch at start.

Row 13:  sl st into corner 3ch space;    [4ch (counts as 1trc) 2trc, 3ch, 3trc into same space as join (corner)];  [(3trc into next 3ch space) x2;  (3dc into next 3ch space) x2;  (3hdc into next 3ch space) x3;   (3dc into next 3ch space) x2;   (3trc into next 3ch space) x2;  (3trc, 3ch, 3trc into next 3ch space, 1ch)] x3;   [(3trc into next 3ch space) x2;  (3dc into next 3ch space) x2;  (3hdc into next 3ch space) x3;   (3dc into next 3ch space) x2;   (3trc into next 3ch space) x2] sl st into top of 4ch at start.

Row 14:   2ch (counts as 1hdc) into same place as sl st;  1hdc into top of each dc,  Into corner 3ch spaces crochet 2hdc, 3ch, 2hdc;   sl st into top of 2ch at start to close

The pattern for the final square will be posted on Friday, 17 October 2014, along with a chart for joining the squares.   

Here is a slight peek at what the blanket is going to look like:

I have been thinking of crocheting a few rows of dark grey around each square before I start joining...... not sure yet though!

Please post the photos of your progress on my Zooty Owl Facebook page so that I can share them with my next post!

Have fun!!!

(Part 8 of the Happy Days CAL:    The Happy Days Mandala Square can be found HERE)

Happy Days CAL (6): BOX STITCH SQUARES

Welcome to Part 6 of our Happy Days Blanket Crochet Along! 

For those needing to do a bit of catching up or would still like to join in, here are the links so far:

PART 1 (Hakuna Matata Mandala Square) (where you will find all the necessary info about this project);
 
Part 2 (Sunny Flower Square);

Part 3 (Tic-Tac-Toe Square);

Part 4 (Solid Granny Square); and

Part 5 (Popcorn Flower & Leaves Square)

So far we have made:
4 x Hakuna Matata Squares (28cm x 28cm each)
10 x  Sunny Flower Squares (14cm x 14cm each)
4 x  Tic-Tac-Toe Squares (28cm x 28cm each)
10 x Solid Granny Squares (14cm x 14cm each)
8 x Popcorn Flower & Leaves Squares (14cm x 14cm each) 

We have joined the Sunny Flower Squares and the Solid Granny Squares to make 5 bigger 28cm x 28cm Squares

We are all using exactly the same patterns but each and every blanket is so special and unique!!!

 

 

 

 
This weeks square is a Box Stitch Square  (if you need a bit of help with the "Box Stitch" you can find the photo tutorial HERE)

We will be making 8 of these squares:

BOX STITCH SQUARE

YARN:  DK (8ply / light worsted weight) 100% acrylic 
 
HOOK:  5.00mm

SIZE:  14cm x 14cm

PATTERN TERMS:   US

I will include this conversion chart with each pattern to make it easier for those using UK terms

Foundation:   4ch, sl st to join OR make a magic ring;

Row 1:   3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc into ring, 2ch;  (3dc into ring, 2ch) x3;  sl st to close, break off yarn.

Row 2:   Join new colour, in any 2ch space;   4ch (counts as 1sc, 4ch) 1sc in same space as join;   (3ch;   1sc, 3ch, 1sc in next 2ch space) x3;   3ch sl st into 1st of 4ch at start to join, break off yarn.

ROW 3:   Join new colour, working 3dc (3dc cluster) into each 3ch space;   and 3dc, 3ch, 3dc into each corner 3ch;   sl st to join, break off yarn.

Row 4:   Join new colour, in any corner 3ch space;   4ch (counts as 1sc, 4ch) 1sc in same space as join;   *(3ch, 1sc into space between 3dc clusters) x2;  3ch;  (1sc, 3ch, 1sc into corner 3ch space)* repeat *to* 3 times;  (3ch, 1sc into space between 3dc clusters)x2;  3ch, sl st into first of 4ch at start to join, break off yarn.

Row 5:  Join new colour, working 3dc (3dc cluster) into each 3ch space;   and 3dc, 3ch, 3dc into each corner 3ch;   sl st to join, break off yarn.

Row 6:  Join new colour, in any corner 3ch space;   4ch (counts as 1sc, 4ch) 1sc in same space as join;   *(3ch, 1sc into space between 3dc clusters) x4;  3ch;  (1sc, 3ch, 1sc into corner 3ch space)* repeat *to* 3 times;  (3ch, 1sc into space between 3dc clusters)x4;  3ch, sl st into first of 4ch at start to join, break off yarn.

Row 7:  Join new colour, working 3dc (3dc cluster) into each 3ch space;   and 3dc, 3ch, 3dc into each corner 3ch;   sl st to join.

Row 8:   1ch (counts as 1sc);   1sc into each dc;   3sc into each corner 3ch;   sl st into 1ch at start to join.     Break off yarn. 

Join the Box Stitch Squares to the Popcorn Flower & Leaves Squares using the VISIBLE JOIN METHOD (or use your preferred joining method) to make bigger squares (28cm x 28cm = 2 Box Stitch Squares and 2 Popcorn Flower & Leaves Squares).

The pattern for the next square will be posted on Friday, 3 October 2014.

Please post the photos of your progress on my Zooty Owl Facebook page so that I can share them with my next post!


Happy crocheting!!

(Part 7:   The Zooty Mandala Square)

Cosmos Fields Shawl: Pattern

The Cosmos Fields Shawl pattern has been written with my "novice" readers in mind - (with more detailed explanations on how to get from row to row etc).

This is a fun project for any skill level though - super to take along on holiday (I just did) or for in front of the telly!  

(A print-friendly version of this pattern can be found HERE)

The pattern is designed to be worked in a 100% acrylic "economy" DK (8ply / light worsted weight) yarn, but it works up quite wonderfully in a more luxurious yarn! 

The stitch composition is very uncomplicated - making the pattern suitable for both variegated and solid colour yarns!

Various yarn blends also work well with this pattern – Courtelle, 100% wool, acrylic/wool blends and  cottons.

Thinner yarns may be used – just keep repeating the pattern row (Row 3) until you reach the required size.     Always make sure you end on an odd number of rows before starting your edging!

Thicker yarns may also be used, such as chunky (12 - 14ply) or super chunky (14 - 16ply).

Notes:

Right Side / Wrong Side:     

We will talk about every odd row as the right side (eg, rows 1, 3, 5, 7, 9 etc are the right side);    

and every even row as the wrong side (eg, rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 etc)

Side Increases are made at the beginning AND end of every row.   

The increase of 2dc at the beginning of a row is made into the 1ch space at the end of the previous row.    

The increase of 2dc at the end of the row is made into the 4ch loop which is formed at the start of the previous row (you will note that at the beginning of a row I say that the 4ch counts as 1dc, 1ch, so this  is not "seen" as a 4ch loop when working the next row but as a 1ch space and then 1dc at the very end of the row - when writing the pattern I will NOT say to crochet into the 4ch loop at the end of the row - I DO say to crochet into the 1ch space at the end of the row   

The Point (or corner) is formed in your very first row (2dc, 3ch, 2dc).     

Throughout the shawl you will work 2dc, 3ch, 2dc into the 3ch space from the previous row.     (Effectively increasing your stitch count over the point or corner with 2dc on every row)

If your increases are correct you WILL have a perfect triangle.    

If the triangle pulls outward - you are increasing too much.   

If the triangle pulls inward (like a kite) you are increasing too little.

An easy "check" is to count your stitches - each row should increase with a multiple of six:   Row 1 = 6;   Row 2 = 12;   Row 3 = 18;   Row 4 = 24;   Row 5 = 30 and so on.    Once you have the first few rows correct you probably won't need to count any more.

Triangle:    The shawl is worked seamlessly (in one piece) from the top to the bottom - your first row being the top of the shawl which will lie behind your neck and the last row being the bottom which will hang down over your back.

Stitches:   We are using five basic stitches only for the shawl - chain (ch);  single crochet (sc); half double crochet (hdc) and double crochet (dc) (US terms); 

and then also a slip stitch (sl st) on the edging;     

UK CROCHETERS will be using a double crochet (dc) (single crochet in US);  half treble (htr) (half double crochet in US) and a treble (tr) (double crochet in US).

COSMOS FIELDS SHAWL:    PATTERN

Yarn:    Lollipop DK (100% Acrylic)

Colours:  Avo Green;   Khaki;   Saxe Blue;   Violet;   Plum  (The Lollipop is imported from Turkey - but I have no idea what it is called outside of South Africa. There are however, similar colours in the Stylecraft Special DK - Lime, Meadow, Cloud Blue, Lavender and Plum)

Stripe Composition:

1 row of each:    Avo; Khaki, Saxe Blue, Violet, Plum (rows 1 - 5)

2 rows of each:  Avo; Khaki, Saxe Blue, Violet, Plum (Rows 6 - 15)

3 rows of each:   Avo; Khaki, Saxe Blue, Violet, Plum (rows 16 - 30)

4 rows of each:  Avo; Khaki, Saxe Blue, Violet, Plum (rows 31 - 50)

1 row of each:  Avo; Khaki, Saxe Blue, Violet, Plum
(rows 51 - 55) 

1 row Avo (row 56)
1 row Saxe Blue (row 57)
1 row Khaki (row 58)
1 row Violet (row 59)
1 row Saxe Blue (row 60)
1 row Khaki (row 61)
1 row Avo (row 62) 

Hook:   5.50mm 

Foundation:  crochet 6ch

Row 1:     Into first chain (the 6th chain from your hook) 

[crochet (2dc, 3ch, 2dc - this forms the point of your shawl), 1ch, 1dc]

(turn your work so that you are now working along the "wrong side")

 

Row 2:  4ch (counts as 1dc, 1ch)

2dc into 1ch sp

1dc between the next two dc

[2dc, 3ch, 2dc into 3ch sp (point formed)]

1dc between next two dc;   (2dc, 1ch, 1dc) into 1ch sp at end of row

(turn your work so that you are now working along the "right side")

Row 3:  4ch (counts as 1dc, 1ch), 2dc into 1ch sp;   1dc between each dc on previous row;  2dc, 3ch, 2dc into point;  1dc between each dc on previous row;  2dc, 1ch,  1dc into 1ch sp at end of row
(turn your work) 

Rows 4 - 55:  Repeat Row 3

(this means that you repeat the pattern row you have crocheted in Row 3 - i.e. just continue to follow the pattern in the red text for the next 52 Rows)


Border:

Row 56:  3ch (counts as 1hdc, 1ch), 2hdc into 1ch sp;  [3ch, skip 2 spaces between dc (this means you will skip 3dc posts) 1hdc into the 3rd space] 

repeat this with the last hdc being made into the 3ch space of the point (corner); 3ch; 1hdc into same 3ch space;   

[3ch, skip 2 spaces between dc (this means you will skip 3dc posts) 1hdc into the 3rd space] repeat this until there are 3dc posts left at the end of the row;   2hdc, 1ch, 1hdc into the chain space at the end of the row. 

(turn your work) 

Row 57:  4ch (counts as 1dc, 1ch), 2dc into 1ch sp;  [3dc (3dc group) into next 3ch space] repeat this until you reach the point (corner)

Into the 3ch space work 3dc, 3ch, 3dc;

[3dc (3dc group) into next 3ch space] repeat this up to and including the last 3ch space;

2dc; 1ch, 1dc into the chain space at the end of the row (turn your work)

Row 58:   3ch (counts as 1hdc, 1ch), 2hdc into 1ch sp;   3ch, skip 2dc;  (1hdc into space before next 3dc group; 3ch);    repeat this with the last 3ch repeat being made just before the point (corner)

1hdc, 3ch, 1hdc into the 3ch space of the point (corner);

(3ch; 1hdc into space before next 3dc group; 3ch) repeat this to the space before the the last 3dc group;

1hdc into the space after the last 3dc group;   3ch;

2hdc, 1ch, 1hdc into the chain space at the end of the row.

Row 59:  Repeat Row 57


Row 60:  Repeat Row 58


Row 61:  Repeat Row 57

Row 62:  Into the 1ch space at the start of the row work 3dc;  (3ch, 1sc into next sp;  3ch, 2dc into next  sp) repeat this with your last 2dc being into the corner 3ch;  3ch, and crochet another 2dc into the corner;

(3ch, 1sc into next sp,  3ch, 2dc into next sp) repeat to last sp;   3ch, 2dc into 1ch space at end of row.

(We are now going to do the base edging - the longest side of the triangle which is formed as you do your rows)

Into same 1ch space work 3hdc; 

sl st into side of first dc post, (2ch, 1hdc, sl st into side of next dc post) repeat to last dc post, 3hdc, sl st into top of 3ch at start of row to end.

I would just like to say a very special THANK YOU to the following ladies for checking my pattern for me:

Joy Merrill (JOYFUL YARNS'S PATTERN STORE)

Lisa Kingsley (LISA KINGSLEY'S PATTERN STORE)

Michelle Westlund (CROCHET BETWEEN WORLDS)

Eleanor Thomson (Nelnanandnora)